Wallpapering in Delft

That depends mainly on the condition of the wall and the type of wallpaper, not just the number of square metres. We inspect first and then agree on one fixed price in writing, with preparation, hanging and any painting listed separately.

We work with one fixed price for the whole job. Charging per roll doesn't say much, since a wall with three windows and an angled section takes far more time than a flat wall of the same area. You can supply the wallpaper yourself or have us order it.

We work that out for you at the inspection. For plain wallpaper it comes down to the wall area plus a small margin. For pattern wallpaper the repeat matters: the bigger the repeat, the more gets cut off per strip. That can significantly increase the number of rolls needed.

With non-woven wallpaper, the paste goes on the wall and the paper doesn't need to soak; it doesn't expand or shrink. With paper wallpaper, the paste goes on the paper, which soaks for about five minutes, expanding and then shrinking as it dries. That makes non-woven wallpaper easier to get tight and, later, to remove in one piece.

Non-woven glass fibre wallpaper. It's smooth, strong and doesn't shrink, making a seamless finish achievable. It's not a final finish but a base: paint goes over it. We use it wherever the wall needs to be tight and needs to withstand knocks.

A fleece of cellulose and textile fibres that strengthens the wall, levels it and bridges hairline cracks. It's often chosen as an alternative to re-plastering. Renovation fleece also gets painted over after installation.

If the wall is in reasonable condition and you mainly want a tight, seamless finish, choose lining paper. If the wall is uneven, with hairline cracks or old repairs, choose renovation fleece: it's thicker, levels better and keeps fine cracks closed. We assess that at the inspection based on the wall itself.

For hairline cracks that no longer move, it works excellently and the wall stays smooth for years. For a crack that's still active, for example from settlement, the fleece cracks along with it. Then the cause needs addressing first. We'll say so upfront, not after the wall is finished.

Usually not. We fill and sand small imperfections ourselves. Only if the plaster sounds hollow, is coming loose, or is uneven over large areas is a plasterer the logical first step. In many cases, renovation fleece is actually a cheaper alternative to re-plastering.

Always, on an absorbent, powdery or freshly repaired wall. Priming stops the paste from being absorbed immediately and lets the wallpaper bond instead of coming loose later. It's one of the steps most often skipped when people wallpaper themselves, and the one that most often causes problems afterwards.

As a rule, yes. Papering over old wallpaper seems like a time-saver, but the old glue gets damp again and the bottom layer can bubble or come loose, taking the new layer with it. Non-woven wallpaper usually strips off dry in one go; paper needs soaking or steaming.

Yes, provided the paint bonds well and isn't glossy. A glossy or satin coat is lightly sanded first so the paste has something to grip. If the paint is coming loose anywhere, that needs to come off first; otherwise the wallpaper will later come down with that layer.

In the kitchen and in a hallway, no problem, provided you choose vinyl or another moisture-resistant, washable type. In a bathroom we recommend it outside the wet zone and advise against it within the splash zone: no wallpaper withstands sustained shower steam and direct water.

For a wall or room that only needs cleaning and priming, it's usually a day. If old wallpaper needs removing, cracks need filling, or paint still needs to go over lining paper or renovation fleece, it's two to three days, part of which is drying time.

Allow twenty-four to forty-eight hours before it's fully dry, depending on humidity. Important during that period: no draughts. An open window or a door that keeps swinging dries the strips unevenly, which is exactly how seams open up.

Yes. Wallpaper paste is virtually odourless and we work room by room. The room we're working in needs to be clear enough to move along the walls, and the floor gets covered. We tidy up at the end of every working day.

We only ask that you remove small items: books, decorations, whatever's hanging on the walls, and the contents of cabinets that need to be moved. We move large furniture to the middle of the room together and cover it. If you'd like us to do everything, that's possible, and we'll list it as a separate item in the quote.

Not with good work and the right type. Lining paper doesn't shrink and can be finished seamlessly. With non-woven wallpaper, strips are butted together rather than overlapped. Seams that open up after a few weeks are almost always caused by a draught during drying or a surface that wasn't primed.

The repeat is the distance over which the motif repeats. To make the pattern line up, each strip has to start at the right point, and whatever's above that gets cut off. With a large repeat, that can be tens of centimetres per strip. It doesn't add more hours, but it does add more rolls.

Lining paper and renovation fleece are made exactly for that and can be repainted multiple times. Plain non-woven wallpaper with a texture usually can be too, provided it's firmly attached. Wallpaper with strong embossing or a vinyl layer is hard to paint over opaquely; then removal is often the better plan.

Yes. For landlords we regularly do wallpapering and painting during a tenant turnover, where speed matters because the home needs to be re-let. For VvE's we work in hallways, entrance halls and stairwells, where lining paper is often the sensible choice because it withstands knocks.

We work from Delft within a radius of roughly 45 kilometres. Besides Delft we regularly wallpaper in Rijswijk, Pijnacker, Nootdorp, Zoetermeer, Den Hoorn, Schiedam, Vlaardingen, Naaldwijk and Den Haag. If you're not sure whether your address is within range, just call or WhatsApp us.